Although many people are intimidated by the reputed complications in keeping Discus, careful keepers and breeders say that these fish are not as difficult to raise as one might think. With special attention to water quality, the Blue Discus, with its gorgeous coloration and unique body shape, can make an attractive and amazing captive.

Blue Discus are often considered difficult to keep and breed in captivity. However, most enthusiasts maintain that they are actually not hard to successfully raise. The trick seems to be in keeping the water quality absolutely perfect for these fish. Keeping stress levels to a minimum helps as well. Plenty of hiding places should be provided. Having other fish present may also stress Blue Discus, so they should be kept in small groups with other members of their species. It is important not to crowd them. When breeding, Blue Discus usually show careful parental care, and protect their fry after hatching, fanning water over them, until they have grown strong enough to swim.

Blue Discus are round in shape and are very thin laterally. They can grow to diameters of six inches (15 centimeters) and are quite graceful in appearance. The Blue Discus has a small mouth with such a steeply rising forehead that the fish is nearly perfectly round. Its black anal and dorsal fins have long bases and the edges are rounded. These fins are tinted with red shades. Blue Discus have saber shaped, blue ventral fins, which are black at the edges, and caudal fins that are notched. In color, Blue Discus are usually pale blue or brownish. Usually older fish have more blue coloration. Their heads are tinted with purple iridescence. Although there are nine transverse stripes over the length of their bodies, usually only the first and last bands are readily seen. Pale blue stripes run along the entire body of the Blue Discus, and often spill over onto the dorsal and ventral fin coloration. When breeding, glands in the skin of Blue Discus will usually secrete fluids for their young to feed from, in a biological process similar to that of a lactating mammal.

The Blue Discus is native to the upper regions of the Amazon River, and surrounding tributaries. The water in these regions is warm and slightly acidic and is usually clear and deep. Submerged trees usually form homes for wild Blue Discus living in such areas.

Normally, Blue Discus are kept in large aquariums where they have plenty of space and open water in addition to secluded hiding areas. Lighting for Blue discus should be dim. Water temperatures for Blue Discus should remain around 84 degrees Fahrenheit. A pH of 6.5 is desired with water hardness levels between 2 and 3. Numerous hiding places should be provided, particularly thick, sturdy plants that grow from the bottom of the enclosure to the surface of the water. Often, bog weed is a good choice for Blue Discus. They are extremely sensitive to water quality, and their enclosures should undergo weekly water replacement of a fourth to a third in volume. Usually Blue Discus should be kept in groups of five or six fish to reduce stress, and no other species should be kept in the same enclosure. Blue Discus should be fed a varied diet. A nutritionally complete flake food is often used to make up part of their diets, though you should remember that the most natural diet is often the best diet. The remainder of their food consists of frozen bloodworms and rinsed brine shrimp, in addition to red worms. They are often offered beef heart, though it is best to feed this immediately before water change because of its tendency to pollute the water. Some breeders maintain that because these fish are susceptible to internal parasites, Blue Discus should not be fed black worms, tubifex worms, daphnia, or any other living freshwater organism. Others say that live daphnia and tubifex worms are appropriate and should be an essential part of the Blue Discus diet. Preferences could be due to past experience with internal parasites, and you may wish to judge on the frequency that your Blue Discus have had problems with parasites. It is often recommended that wild caught Blue Discus be kept in temperatures in the 90 degrees Fahrenheit and medicated for parasites, before the temperature is slowly lowered, in order to reduce stress to these fish. Like most Discus species, Blue Discus seem to be particularly susceptible to Hexamita infections. Blue Discus that appear too dark in color, have sunken eyes, or have stringy feces, are probably ill. These fish should not be purchased, or, they should be diagnosed and treated if you already own them.

Normally, Blue Discus must be in optimal health before they will breed, and sexual maturity usually occurs between two and three years of age. Since they pair off for life, an acceptable method of pair formation seems to be to combine a group of younger fish. They will then choose their own mates. Because sometimes, Blue Discus will form a two-female pair, you should watch each pair to ensure that only one member is depositing eggs. If this happens, one member of the pair should be removed so that the remaining fish will be encouraged to couple with another member of the breeding group. Pairs can be removed to individual, 29 gallon breeding tanks before they begin to chase and stress other Blue Discus kept in their enclosures. A clean piece of slate leaned at a 65 degree angle to the tank wall should be offered. Normally, a 12 inch long, three inch wide piece will work well. Your Blue Discus pair will probably spend hours cleaning it before depositing their eggs. Infertility may be a problem, but often this corrects itself with time. Some Blue Discus also have tendencies to eat their eggs, and you may find it necessary to remove the parents. Normally the eggs require about 50 hours to hatch. The parents will usually aid the fry in hatching and will transfer them to leaves, where the young will remain for the two to three days before they are able to swim. Because Blue Discus fry feed off of skin secretions on their parents' bodies, many people recommend leaving them with their parents until they are large enough that the parents become distressed. At this point, the fry are removed. Others remove the eggs from the breeding tank immediately and raise the Blue Discus fry on foods like rotifers and hatchling brine shrimp. Fry usually appear elongate, and begin to develop their disc shapes when they are about three months old. Blue Discus usually acquire adult coloration between eight and nine months of age.