The Old World, or "True", Chameleons are some of the most unique and fascinating lizards. Unfortunately, most of them are also very delicate and considered very difficult, at best, to maintain successfully. The Veiled Chameleon is one of the most commonly kept chameleons; and though its popularity is largely due to the fact that it is one of the easiest True Chameleons to maintain and propagate in captivity, it is also one of the more attractive and impressive looking species.

The Veiled Chameleon is a highly adaptable species that is found in a wide range of habitats, from hot, arid deserts to somewhat cool, humid forests. Interestingly, this species is omnivorous, with a diet consisting of insects and plant matter such as leaves and flowers. They are diurnal, arboreal animals perfectly adapted to a life hidden in the trees. Their feet are mittenlike, and while this makes them clumsy on the ground, the feet are ideally suited for grasping branches; and, like many of the arboreal primates, they have a long, prehensile tail. While not completely defenseless, the Veiled Chameleon is not well equipped to withstand an attacking predator. Their survival strategy is to go unnoticed whenever possible. Their leaflike shape and camouflage coloring is only part of theire disquise. They have evolved highly specialized behavioral traits that help them blend into their surroundings. If undisturbed, they tend to sit motionless most of the time, and when they do move, they do so very slowly, swaying slightly from side to side like a leaf blowing in the breeze. The Veiled Chameleon has proven relatively hardy in captivity and is often touted as the ideal choice for hobbyists who want to try their hand at chameleon husbandry. They are solitary animals in the wild, and they are fairly nervous and territorial creatures. They can become more tolerant of human interaction and handling than most chameleons, but it is often recommended that it be kept to a minimum. Veiled Chameleons may behave aggressively towards humans, other pets, or other Veileds they see as a potential threat or invader of their territory. They will usually try to avoid a confrontation by simply moving away or with a threatening display, which typically consists of them rocking back and forth,laterally compressing their bodies, and changing colors. Extremely agitated Veiled Chameleons will open their mouth in a wide gape, and may bite, if closely approached or grabbed. Veiled Chameleons that are handled often are much less likely to be noticeably frightened by it or behave aggressively, but there is debate about whether or not "taming" them is the best approach. While many keepers believe those accustomed to handling show no apparent ill effects from frequent human interaction, others argue that it still causes the animal undue stress and has negative effects on their health and well-being that are not always obvious.

Adult Veiled Chameleons vary quite a bit in size. Males tend to be larger than females and will typically grow to between 14 and 18 inches in length (35.6 and 45.7 centimeters), though males as large as 24 inches (61 centimeters) have been reported. Females can reach up to 16 inches (40.6 centimeters), but lengths of 12 or 13 inches (30.5 to 33 centimeters) are more common. The Old World Chameleons' coloration changes significantly in response to their environment, and even the "resting" appearance differs from one specimen to another. Juveniles are usually pale green, but often darken to a brownish color in response to stress or some other types of stimuli. Adults are much more colorful than young Veileds, and males are more brilliantly colored than females. The most prominent color is usually some shade of pale green or pale blue-green, though they will often darken to an olive or brownish color when basking. They can display irregular bands, stripes, splotches, and spots, most commonly in various shades of green, blue-green, yellow, brown, and white, but blues, oranges, reds, and black are also seen. The Veiled Chameleon has a characteristic tall casque, which is much larger on adult males than juveniles and females.

The Veiled Chameleon's native range is a narrow coastal region from western Yemen up into southwestern Saudi Arabia. It occupies a variety of habitats including forested mountain slopes, grasslands, high plateaus, and barren deserts.

Veiled Chameleons should be housed in spacious, well-ventilated vertically oriented enclosures. Many keepers have housed them successfully in screen-top terrariums, but enclosures with 2 or more sides screened are often recommended, because they produce much needed ventilation and because chameleons are sometimes stressed by their reflections in the glass. It is best to house hatchlings in relatively small enclosures, about the size of a 10-gallon terrarium. Juveniles up to about 6 inches (15 centimeters) in length should be housed in a 20-gallon terrarium or similar sized enclosure. The minimum size recommended for an adult female is 3 feet tall by 2 feet square, (0.9 meters tall by 0.6 meters square) and for an adult male the minimum size is 4 feet tall by 2 feet square (1.2 meters by 0.6 meters). Because of their solitary and territorial nature, it is recommended that chameleons be housed individually. Males are particularly intolerant of other males, and they should not be kept together. If multiple chameleons are housed together, their enclosure should be larger and should have plenty of visual barriers.

Loose substrates such as sand, soil, wood shavings, and bark chips should not be used in chameleon cages because they might be accidentally ingested. Many keepers prefer to leave the enclosure floor bare. Newspaper and butcher paper are commonly used substrates and can make cleaning a bit easier, but they also give insects something to hide beneath.

Their enclosures should have plenty of branches to climb on and foliage. Some keepers prefer artificial foliage, because it is easier to maintain than live plants, but because Veiled Chameleons sometimes eat plants, there is a risk of it being ingested by the chameleon. For this same reason, care must be taken when selecting live plants. Be sure to only use plants that are considered nontoxic such as hibiscus, scheffelera, and pothos. Fiscus is also commonly used with no apparent problems, but this plant secretes a sap that some believe could irritate their eyes.

Chameleons should be exposed to full spectrum UV lighting for about 13 hours a day. The ambient daytime temperature should be about 85 degrees Fahrenheit (29 degrees Celsius) with a basking spot between 95 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit (35 and 38 degrees Celsius). At night, the temperature should drop to between 70 and 75 degrees (21 and 24 degrees Celsius). These chameleons often do best at moderate humidity levels (about 50%), which are commonly maintained by setting up a drip system or with regular misting or a combination of both. This will also provide drinking water for the chameleon, as they usually will not drink from bowls, but rather drink water droplets on leaves.

Veiled Chameleons should be fed a variety of insects such as crickets, mealworms, earthworms, waxworms, flies, cockroaches, and slugs, and they can be given pinkie mice occasionally. It is recommended that insects always be dusted with a calcium supplement, and a multivitamin used about once a week will help ensure the chameleon is receiving the proper nutrition. Adults should also be offered a variety of plant matter. Dark leafy green vegetables such as collards, dandelion greens, turnip greens, and kale are very nutritious. Grape leaves and edible flowers are also good options. Some Veileds eat plant matter more readily than others, and juveniles usually eat only insects.

Chameleons are delicate animals that need to be handled with extreme care. The feet and tail can grasp objects very tightly and can easily be damaged if the chameleon is pulled away roughly. It is also important to keep in mind that falls can easily prove fatal for chameleons. Veiled Chameleons may jump out of your hands, if frightened by a sudden movement or sound or if they are not accustomed to being handled. Making sure they never have far to fall when being handled will help prevent a serious injury, if such an accident does occur. Also, be sure that all branches in the chameleon's enclosure are stable and strong enough to support the chameleon's weight.

For a female Veiled Chameleon, reproduction is exhaustive work that depletes her fat and calcium reserves and takes its toll on her physically. Successful breeding requires that only healthy individuals with good weight and proper nutrition be bred. It is important to make sure females receive adequate UV exposure and calcium and that they are well fed prior to breeding. It should also be noted that females that are bred will often have significantly shorter lifespans.

Males can be distinguished from females, even as hatchlings, by the presence of a small tarsal spur (a fleshy triangular shaped bump) on the heels of their rear feet. In addition, males will grow larger and as adults, have a taller casque and are more vibrantly colored than females. Veiled Chameleons typically reach sexual maturity at about 5 or 6 months of age, though it may take as long as 12 months. Females that are ready to breed often exhibit blue spotting over part or all of their bodies. Not all females show such obvious signs of their sexual readiness. If in doubt, the pair can be placed together, and the female can be observed for signs of receptivity. Receptive females will pay little attention to the male, while those that are unreceptive will begin displaying threatening behavior. If the female is not receptive, she should be removed immediately, because she could be severly injured or stressed by a persistant male. Male Veiled Chameleons have impressive mating displays designed to show off their health and vigor to prospective mates. They undergo dramatic color changes, becoming incredibly vibrant. The male will laterally compress his body, rock back and forth, and curl and uncurl his long tail.

Copulation usually lasts only a few minutes, but may take place many times over the course of a few days. When the female begins to rock back and forth, change colors, or otherwise display aggression when approached by the male, they should be separated. Females will lay their eggs anywhere between 15 and 42 days after copulation. Veiled Chameleons are very prolific, and they lay anywhere between 3 and 6 clutches of 10 to 70 eggs per year, though clutches as large as 100 eggs have been reported. The average clutch contains about 40 eggs.

When oviposition draws near, females will typically wander around the floor of their enclosure looking for a suitable nesting spot. There are many methods for providing a nesting area. One popular method is to use a large rubber or plastic trash can complete with a clip-on basking lamp, branches, and some foliage to help her feel more hidden. Make sure the branches are not high enough to allow her to crawl out onto the lip of the trash can. Use 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 centimeters) of damp potting soil, playground sand, or a soil/sand mixture as the substrate. Females generally do not want to eat once they near oviposition, but if food is provided, it should be offered by hand or in a dish to avoid accidental ingestion of the substrate. The female will dig a large nest in the substate and after she has deposited all her eggs in it, she will cover it well, leaving little or no evidence of her nest site. When she is finished, she will climb back up on the branches and should then be returned to her enclosure so that she is not disturbed when you remove the eggs for incubation.

Incubate the eggs in a lidded container such as a plastic shoebox or tupperware type container with a few small holes drilled at opposite ends to allow for some ventilation. Slightly damp vermiculite or perlite can be used as incubation medium. Veiled Chameleon eggs should be incubated at relatively low temperatures of 68 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 27 degrees Celsius). At the higher end of this range, a 5 degree Fahrenheit nighttime temperature drop is recommended. Eggs typically take 6 to 8 months to hatch, but may take anywher from 4 to 9 months. Just prior to hatching, the eggs will begin to sweat and may also start to leak a small amount of fluid. Some eggs within a clutch may take up to a week longer to hatch than others. The hatchlings are 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 centimeters) long.

It should be noted that in some cases the female will attack the male if she is not taken out of cage as soon as she starts displaying aggressive behavior. This often results in serious injury or death. One way to prevent this from happening is to remove the female right after she has mated. Females will change color after successful mating, so it is usually easy to tell when this has happened.