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Care Information for Turtles
(including any information on the Painted Turtle - Western)

Housing - Part 2 of 7

Although many turtles are aquatic (like Red Eared Slider Turtles) and some are only semi-aquatic (like Wood Turtles). Each type of turtle will require a specific environment.

Semi-aquatic turtles will usually need an environment large enough to allow for a pond area as well as a beach area. This is the best all around style of enclosure for turtles. Aquatic turtles can use an enclosure that may be filled with water, such as an aquarium. Plastic or glass enclosures are often preferred because they are impermeable and non-absorbent. Other people may choose to use wood enclosures that have been treated with waterproofing sealant such as fiberglass resin, and allowed to air out. This way there will be no toxic fumes present from the sealant when you place your turtle in the enclosure. Be sure the wood is smooth to avoid splinters or other harm to your turtle. Another option is to construct a wood enclosure that has one or more walls made of glass rather than wood. When using a wood or glass walled enclosure, screen (or nothing) makes a good choice for the enclosure's lid, because this allows beneficial ultraviolet rays essential to your turtle's health into the enclosure.

Turtles have special lighting requirements. They need the rays in ultraviolet light in order to produce vitamin D3 for metabolizing calcium. This is especially important to turtles because they need to maintain hard shells. Natural sunlight should be your first choice of light to provide for your turtle, but this is not always possible. Generally any full spectrum fluorescent lamps that include UVB in their spectrum will also work. Simulated daylight should be available to your turtle for about 12 to 14 hours each day. Of course, it is advisable to vary the photoperiod, or length of daylight, that you allow your turtle, seasonally. For example, simulated winter days should have shorter photo periods than summer days. Many people find it easiest to attach their lights to timers, and there are some models of timer available that will conveniently create a seasonal light variation without much effort on your part. On sunny days, some people will set their turtles outside in direct light. If you do this, make sure your turtle is in an enclosure that will not overheat, and that it cannot escape from. Be sure that no other animals can get inside to harm your turtle. Many people will put their turtle into a container outside and supervise it; this way they are sure it is free from harm and that it is not becoming overheated. Others may prefer to open a window to allow their turtles direct access to sunlight; again, be sure the animal does not become overheated if you choose to do this.

Because turtles cannot produce their own body heat, the temperature of the turtle will essentially match that of the environment it is in. Turtles who are too cold will be sluggish and may have problems digesting their food. They tend to be more prone to disease than turtles that are kept under optimal conditions. The temperature of the air in the enclosure will need to be kept at some constant temperature, as will the temperature of the water. Turtles will also usually appreciate a basking spot, which should be kept at a higher temperature than the rest of the enclosure. It is advisable to keep a thermometer in the enclosure so you are sure of the temperature. Many experienced turtle owners keep one thermometer in the warm end and another in the cooler end of the enclosure. A wide variety of thermometers are available to buy; some are simple mechanisms, while others have digital displays. The general, or ambient, heat can be provided through the use of an overhead light. Some people choose to use both over and under tank heat sources. This may not be a good idea, since turtles are anatomically designed to tolerate overhead heat. Heating the underside of a turtle can cause serious health problems.

If you find that the over tank heaters are not properly warming the water in your aquatic turtle's tank, you may find that a small submersible water heater will be helpful. It is probably a good idea to test the calibration of such a heater's settings to ensure that it will provide the correct temperature. The basking spot can be created with a single heat source aimed toward one area of the cage; a smooth rock or plank where the turtle can comfortably rest may be a good choice for the location. Each species of turtle may have a different requirement for basking temperatures. As a general rule, you can determine whether or not the basking spot you have provided is too hot for your turtle by placing your hand underneath it where the turtle would rest. The heat intensity should match that of noonday sun in the summer, and should be even and gentle. It should not be so hot that your turtle cannot safely fall asleep under it. Depending on the type of climate your turtle is native to, it may or may not use the basking spot often; tropical species of turtles tend to bask less often than others do. Apart from the warm areas of the enclosure, your turtle should also have a cooler area of the enclosure, where it can move to should it become too hot.

Some semi-aquatic turtles need more water than others do, so a bowl of fresh water should be present at all times. Many times a shallow dish that the turtle cannot tip over is appropriate. Try to choose a container that it will be easy for your turtle to get in and out of; or, you may find a ramp attached to the container to be helpful. Smooth rocks or gravel may be used to build slopes out of the water. Although many semi-aquatic turtles will do fine with a bowl or dish, some need about 50 percent of their enclosure to be submerged. Sometimes these turtles will need this water to be deep enough to fully cover them; to ensure this is the case, make the water depth equal the length of the turtle's carapace. In larger or outdoor enclosures, a cat litter pan sunk into the substrate may work well for this purpose; again, be sure the turtle can easily get in and out of it. Humidity can be increased by misting the enclosure. You may wish to use distilled water for misting to avoid water spots on the enclosure. However, you should not offer your turtle distilled water in drinking dishes or bowls. It can be helpful to obtain a humidity gauge for your turtle's enclosure if you are striving for an exact moisture level.

Aquatic turtles will need an enclosure that consists almost entirely of water. They will spend the majority of their time swimming about or floating. However, even these turtles will need an area where they can get out of the water. This can be as small as a piece of floating cork bark for basking, or it can be as large as a beach or land area.

Another consideration in keeping water in your turtle's tank might be the salinity or pH levels. Simple water test kits are available for purchase to allow you to be sure that you are keeping your turtle at his ideal pH and salinity levels.

The substrate in your turtle's enclosure will not only aid in keeping it clean, but it will also allow your turtle to dig or burrow, as many will try to do. For semi-aquatic turtles, a land area may be made from garden soil mixed with bark chips. Do not use cedar or redwood, as these are toxic. Orchid bark may be a good choice, especially for people wishing for a more decorative material. 'Astroturf' or indoor/outdoor carpeting are options that can also work well. Having several pieces makes cleaning quite convenient, as you may utilize one piece while the others are cleaned. Coarser types of material are generally not used for substrates because they can scratch or wear the shells of some turtles, possibly allowing opportunistic fungal or bacterial infections to start. Examples of these are coarse sand, sharp rocks, or rough gravel. The land area should usually be kept dry, although some turtles require high levels of humidity. In such cases, absorbent substrates like peat moss, sphagnum moss, or cypress mulch are appropriate. Most turtles will appreciate a hiding area as well, where they may retreat. Hollow logs, sheltered areas under planks or branches, plastic containers, or cardboard boxes all work well for such a purpose. In the pond or pool area of the enclosure, some turtles like floating cork or plastic rafts. Smooth gravel or pond rocks can be used as substrates in aquatic turtle enclosures. With all substrates, you should be sure that the material is not small enough for the turtle to easily ingest, as it can cause impactions in the animal's digestive system.

Cleaning your turtle's enclosure regularly will facilitate keeping your animal healthy. Dirty enclosures can cause infections in your animal. Many people choose to use filtering systems in aquatic turtle tanks and find that these reduce the frequency with which they need to be cleaned. It is a myth that filters will entirely eliminate the need for you to clean the tank. Some keepers will feed their turtles, especially aquatic turtles, in another enclosure so that floating food does not soil the tank or clog the filters. When you do change the water in your turtle's enclosure, replace it with warm water to aid the heaters in compensating the temperature difference. This is usually most important for aquatic turtles who may be stressed if placed into cold water suddenly. There are two types of cleaners available for use: mechanical cleaners and disinfectants. Both types are important in maintaining a clean environment for your turtle. Mechanical cleaners will aid in physically removing dirt or other soil. A disinfectant will aid in killing germs. You should use the mechanical cleaner before the disinfectant. Many people prefer to use a bleach and water solution to clean their turtle enclosure. Some will use commercial cleaners recommended by their veterinarians. Commercial household cleaners should generally be avoided, as they may contain ingredients that are toxic to reptiles. No matter what you use, be sure that you rinse the enclosure thoroughly. Remaining residue may be unhealthy for your turtle.

Although some species of turtle may be housed together, it is generally a good idea to keep only one turtle in each enclosure unless you are mating them or know for sure that they are compatible. This will avoid injury and possibly death due to territorial aggression. If you must keep more than one turtle in the same enclosure, usually it is better to keep turtles of the same species together rather than attempting to combine different turtle species.

Part One - IntroductionPart Three - Diet
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Please Note: This care sheet is copyright © The Central Pets Educational Foundation (CentralPets.com). It may be freely distributed provided that this notice and Copyright remains included and unchanged. We encourage veterinarians, clubs, pet stores, breeders, humane societies, and others to use this to educate people and promote better pet care. Additions, suggestions, corrections, and questions regarding this care sheet are welcome and should be directed to content@CentralPets.com

Sunday, 12 October 2008